Let’s Talk About the One and Only Tomato: The Indisputable Homecoming Queen of Edible Gardens the World Over

Featured Image by Yves Deploige on Unsplash

While the tomatoes we eat today most often have a savory taste and the tomato is classified as a vegetable in the culinary world, it is in fact a vining fruit (a berry to be exact). Its ancient origins are in the region often referred to as Mesoamerica. By the time of the Aztec Empire, tomatoes were cultivated and available in a variety of sizes and shapes, and their colors were yellow, green, red and combinations in between. When the conquistadors captured and occupied the Aztec’s major cities, tomatoes are just one of the crops that were sent to Europe.

The Aztecs consumed tomatoes raw and cooked (fried, boiled), juiced them, chopped and pureed them in a variety of sauces, sometimes with other fruits and vegetables, much like we do today. Today, we can preserve our harvests for longer “shelf life” by blanching, freezing, and canning.

The early varieties often had a higher sugar content, but this was lost as botanists and breeders crossbred tomatoes to achieve fruit with a full, robust red when ripe. As breeders and scientists cultivated tomatoes for various desired traits, such as smooth skin, larger or uniform size, larger yields, disease resistance and longer shelf life, sometimes other changes occurred in the chemical processes during plant and fruit growth whether due to addition or omission of other linked or close genes. So, for example, breeding a plant variety for resistance to a specific disease may result in fewer fruit, or breeding for a particular uniform shade of red, may mean less sweet fruit or fruit with less nutritional value. Luckily for us, there are so many varieties to choose from, and they often advertise their predominant traits (i.e., large fruit, sweeter fruit, greater yield, tobacco mosaic virus resistant, etc). Also, now given modern technology, we can read consumer reviews and learn their impressions of the pros and cons of the crop before purchasing.

Choosing the Right Tomato(es) for Your Container Garden

First, you have to decide which of the following is most important to you. There are two general types of tomato plants you can grow, determinate and indeterminate. Now, determinate varieties have a definite size range/limit (often smaller – a few feet high, ~ 2 feet spread), fixed growth period, and all of the fruit will likely be ripe and ready at once. Indeterminate varieties grow all season long and can reach heights of up to 8-9 feet and spread 3-4 feet, and will bear and ripen fruit all throughout the growing season. While they both will need support, you can anticipate needing more structure and supports for indeterminate. Patio and bush-type tomatoes are most suitable for containers, especially when conserving space. Whichever type you decided upon, select disease resistant varieties when possible.

Needed Materials for Your Container Tomatoes:

Pots/Containers

You will need medium to large containers. Tomatoes grow large, deep root systems (minimum of a foot) and need lots of soil from which to draw nutrients. Larger plants will need larger containers. Foods safe pots, food safe fabric or plastic grow bags should do the trick. Consult our planting guide for size suggestions and here for a larger variety of planter options.

Fertilizer

Get yourself a tomato or general vegetable fertilizer with more phosphorous than nitrogen in its NPK ratio (organic recommended). A few varieties that have received good consumer reviews are, Jobe’s Organics Vegetable and Tomato Fertilizer, Dr. Earth Organic Tomato, Vegetable & Herb Fertilizer, Espoma Organic Tomato-tone Tomato & Vegetable. Follow the instructions on the packaging. You should fertilize when transplanting your seedlings and again once your plants start bearing fruit. Click here for more about fertilizer and planter/container setup. Tomatoes can also benefit from the addition of bonemeal (1-2 tsp/plant) mixed into the hole, before transplanting. This will provide calcium and lessen chances of blossom end rot, a dark, soft bruise-like blemish at the bottom of tomatoes that spreads through the tomato flesh, ruining the fruit. Bonemeal can be purchased at most nurseries or nursery departments.

Structural Support

Again, remember, tomatoes are essentially vines and without proper staking , can lean, snap, or break under the weight of the fruit, and many of those hairy nodes on the vines can transform into roots and take hold if in contact with soil and water. Cages and stakes with use of plant ties will do the job. Click here to view some suitable options. You may also consult our Garden Toolkit for plant ties and other needed garden supplies and accessories.

Irrigation

Tomato plants need consistent watering, and require increased frequency in watering during times of drought and/or extreme heat. Use of mulch, planters with water reservoirs that use wicking and have drainage for spillover, or use of watering spikes or ollas can assist in this area. In contrast there will inevitably be storms or periods of heavy rain. Ensuring that your soil has good drainage is a must and you can always move your container to an outdoor area sheltered from the rain if possible. Roots resting in water for prolonged periods of time can lead to root rot and excessive amounts of water can wash away the calcium your fruit needs for healthy fruit production. Too little or too much water can both cause a calcium deficiency, also leading to blossom end rot. Sudden increases in water intake may also lead to split fruit. Click here for additional information and resources for irrigation.

Pest Protection

Check the foliage and fruit of your plants routinely so that you can detect infestation or damage early and stop it in its tracks. However, try not to handle plants when wet (to prevent the spread of spores and microbes). Monitor for changes in leaf coloring or texture, and check undersides of leaves, base of plant and fruit for tiny eggs or unwanted insect pests. Remove pests manually or via water spray. Swipe/drop caterpillars/worms and beetles into container of soapy water if discovered on your crop. In most instances it is best to prune away diseased portions of your plants or to discard infected plants, unless experiencing powdery mildew, which can be treated with natural antifungal spray. Click here for images and more information on identification, prevention, and treatment of diseases that may affect tomatoes.

Plant/Container Covers

Keeping young seedlings under a protective cover until they bloom is one way to protect them from early attention and infestation from “freshly sprung” springtime pests. When it is time to permanently remove the covers, you will have better developed, hardier plants. Click here to learn more about plant coverings and their use.

Companion Planting

Companion planting can help prevent and/or control insect pests. Common pests that can affect tomatoes are aphids, flea beetles, spider mites, cutworms, hornworms, corn earworms/tomato worms, whiteflies, and root nematodes.

Marigolds are good companion plants for tomatoes as they attract lady bugs (which eat aphids and whiteflies), trap/prevent root nematodes, can deter moths that are the source of tomato hornworms and other caterpillars, attract parasitic wasps (which can slow/kill hornworms and other caterpillars by laying parasitizing eggs on them). Another benefit is that marigolds attract bumblebees, which are great tomato pollinators! Nasturtium, an edible, flowering vine, is another good trap crop for aphids that may be planted near your tomatoes.

There are several herbs that make good garden companions, as well, by either repelling pests, attracting pest predators, or serving as a more desirable treat (decoy).

Attraction and Repulsion

Dill, fennel and parsley can be beneficial when planted nearby in separate containers. Dill and fennel attract beneficial flies, ladybugs, lacewings and parasitic wasps, as do parsley and yarrow.

Borage repels hornworms and its blooms attract bees and predatory wasps. Nasturtium repeals whiteflies.

Chives and basil repel undesirable insects, including flies, spider mites and hornworms. They also attract pollinators when in bloom. Chives and basil can be grown in the same container as the tomatoes, as their roots will not negatively affect tomato growth.

Onion (and other allium), garlic, and lavender, and daffodils emit scents that squirrels, rabbits and chipmunks dislike, but they are not consistent deterrents. These animals are persistent and are likely to eat around them or “hop in and hop out” for a quick grab and go.

Trap Crops

Sometimes part of the pest solution is including a plant so enticing that pests will choose it over your crop (trap crops). Dill can serve as a trap crop for hornworms. Parsley and yarrow can serve as trap crops for aphids, drawing them away from your tomatoes. Nasturtium is a good trap crop for aphids and flea beetles.

*Tip: Avoid planting tomatoes with or near corn. The corn earworm can devastate a tomato crop.

Insecticides/Pesticides

Keeping a set of spray bottles to prepare insecticides/pesticides, cold pressed neem oil, mild unscented liquid soap, vegetable oil, ground cayenne pepper, garlic, BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray or concentrate, baking soda, diatomaceous earth, will provide you with ingredients to make any number of mixtures to repel or kill insects, and treat fungal infections. Generally, oil-based sprays work best for whiteflies, spider mites and most soft-bodied insects, while soap mixtures may be sufficient for aphid elimination. Sprinkling food-grade diatomaceous earth works well to kill beetles and other insects with harder exoskeletons, while BT is best for most caterpillar issues. Click here for resources regarding natural pesticide mixtures and application.

Pollination: My Marigolds Bring All the Bees to the Yard

When it comes to pollinating tomatoes, bumblebees are the best bees for the job. They are most attracted to flowers in shades of purple, blue and yellow. Some blooms that are popular with these garden friends are lavender, sunflowers, marigolds; eggplant, squash/gourd family blooms. Making sure that you create a safe and enticing environment for bumblebees will help set the groundwork for successful fruiting. Learn more how to support these pollinators by reviewing our post regarding native bees.

Garden Lessons

Below are a few images from the year that I grew an indeterminate tomato plant in a container, asking myself, “How big could it really get in a container?” The answer was, “Plenty!” It was attack of the cherry tomatoes. This plant grew close to 9 feet tall and spread in just about every horizontal direction possible. There were wild, windy thunderstorms that summer and multiple instances of snapping branches. Mr. Getaway Gardens and myself became triage nurses, piecing her back together with grafting tape and craft sticks. Boy was she resilient! The tomatoes just kept coming well into fall. The lesson? Indeterminate is just that…indeterminate.

Note the use of mesh sacks to cover the clusters of fruit, the container cover, and inclusion of nasturtium and marigolds in the planter. There were no animal pest issues during this season. The zinnia and marigolds planted throughout the garden area kept a supply of bumblebees on hand.

Fun Fact:

Heinz sells a determinate variety of tomato advertised as having some disease resistance, and great for making sauces and ketchup. If you love your tomato-based Heinz sauces and are interested, give it a try. Let us know how it goes.

Other Growing Options

Two easy-to-grow container friendly varieties familiar to us include Burpee’s Veranda Red Hybrid (cherry tomatoes) and Tomato Ensalada Hybrid (plum tomatoes). These will fit well in a variety of themed gardens, including salad, salsa/taco, and pizza gardens.

In most temperate climate areas, it is good to get a jumpstart on tomatoes and begin by sowing them indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost in your area. Now that you are armed with the know-how, you should be ready for a bountiful tomato harvest. Keep us posted and enjoy the journey!